People want memories transferred to DVD

Preserving cherished memories by transferring 8mm or 16mm home movies, slides or photographs to DVD is becoming increasingly popular.

“People tell us they want the transfers done because they want to keep a record of memories of special occasions, their children and grandchildren. Plus, they also like the ease of viewing on a computer as opposed to setting up the projector and screen and watching several small reels of tape,” said Joe Ear, owner of Inverness Photography & Custom Framing in the Citrus Center in Inverness.

Inverness Photography also offers custom enhancements to its customers, which can be transferred onto the DVD.

“We recently did a transfer for a family who wanted a Christmas in July theme, so we had snow and Christmas music added to the background to enhance the DVD,” he said.

The process by which the reel tapes, slides or photos are transferred to DVD can take several hours to complete.

The waiting period for a transfer is from two to elleven days, depending on the volume of work.

An increase of customers wanting the service has spurred growth in the number of local businesses offering the service.

We have a lot of parents coming in who want to give their children a video of childhood memories for a gift.

People do not mind paying the price because in some instances the slides are starting to mildew and ruin, and they don’t like the inconvenience of dragging out all of the equipment to watch their memories on a slide projector.

Another business involved in video transfers, Video Conversion Experts, offers film transfer, slide scanning, video transfers, photos to its customers. Other special enhancements also are available.

When people find out about transfers, they don’t hesitate to have it done. They are very interested in preserving the family heritage and this is one way to do it.

Video Conversion Experts charges from 10 cents per foot to convert 8mm to DVD and from 39 cents each to transfer photos and slides to DVD.

Although there is a cost, which is reasonable, to have the transfers done, people don’t mind because their memories can’t be replaced.

How to lighten dark wood cabinets

Before you can proceed with any lightening process, other than regular opaque paint applications, you will have to strip the present finish from your wood cabinets. Use a commercial paint stripper, following manufacturer’s directions carefully.

After the finish has been stripped, you may want to lighten the wood before the “pickling” treatment. You can use a commercial two-part wood bleach, available in caustic industrial-strength formulas.

When working with a commercial bleach it is important to precisely follow directions. However, it is often easier to work with regular household bleach diluted by an equal part of water.

Scrub the wood with this solution and let it work about 15 minutes. Repeat until you get the pale shade you want. Then neutralize the bleaching action with an equal mixture of vinegar and water and a final rinse of clear water. In the bleaching process be careful not to saturate the wood with too much moisture for a long period of time. Moisture will tend to raise the wood grain. Wipe dry after each wet solution treatment. When the wood has thoroughly dried, sand it lightly.

Now you are ready for the “pickling” process, which is a way of tinting open-grain wood by brushing on a solution of thinned-down white or pastel paint and then wiping off most of it. Today you can use regular paints thinned downed or purchase thinned-down, commercial versions that can be applied full strength and then wiped down to the desired tinting effect.

If you use regular paint for the “pickling” process you may need to experiment with the paint-to-solvent ratio (start with a ratio of 3 to 1.)

Use water to thin latex paints, mineral spirits for oil-base. The degree of transparency in the “pickling” finish will be determined by thinning of the paint with the solvent and how much wiping you do to remove the tint from the surface and grain of the wood.

Use a soft, dry rag to wipe most of the paint solution away. Wipe across the grain so that the residue highlights the wood’s natural texture. Open-grained wood will absorb pigment faster. Experiment with different tints and applications in an inconspicuous area to find the shade and technique that suits you.

You can use the same process to finish an unfinished or stripped and sanded wood floor. For protection, apply a polyurethane varnish to both the cabinets and the floor. You may even want to reconsider wood flooring in the kitchen area. Although polyurethane varnish will protect the finish from water spotting and grease spots, it may tend to scratch and you will have to renew the polyurethane coating periodically.

Be wary of commercially prepared wood flooring products that claim durability in the kitchen. Most tend to water spot and become permanently stained when installed in a kitchen environment.